Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, Northern Cape, South Africa



The Kalahari is a rich, red sea of undulating sand topped with grasses, shrubs and trees – not at all the empty pale desert you might have expected. There are even mountains in this remote corner of the Northern Cape, which is so far from anywhere that maps show few roads and even fewer signs of human habitation. In this vast open space you will find Tswalu Kalahari Reserve.

Tswalu is the largest private game reserve in southern Africa. Since this 100 000-hectare reserve was first established, animals like black rhino, buffalo, lion, cheetah, sable and roan antelope have been reintroduced. This is truly one of the wildest parts of South Africa and, considering the region’s limited rainfall and extreme temperatures, it may seem like a hard place to live.

Yet the San (Bushmen) have inhabited the Kalahari for thousands of years. Visitors who have come and gone often feel its ancient soils and wild open spaces calling them back, and instead of seeking a savanna safari getaway, they can’t help but return to the red sands of the Kalahari.

The Kalahari (Desert as it is often called), has a unique appeal and there is no reserve that better takes advantage of this allure than Tswalu. Tswalu’s two lodges – Motse, with eight bungalows in a village setting, and Tarkuni House.

Tarkuni House is a separate, freestanding luxury safari home forty-five-minute drive from Motse. It is set amid rolling hills and is ideal for small groups or families of up to eight people. With a nearby waterhole and its own swimming pool, private game-viewing vehicle and dedicated chef, Tarkuni has all the comforts a visitor would need.

In an epitome of style and elegance, local natural materials were used to create both of the rustic yet elegant dwellings. Curved stone walls and thatched roofs form an organic whole and blend perfectly with the surrounding landscape.

Game drives, bush-walking trails and horseback safaris are but some of the activities to be enjoyed during the day. At night, cloudless skies are ideal for stargazing. The clear skies, ochre sands and majestic mountains of Tswalu cast their spell on guests and once experienced, you will not be able to resist the call of the Kalahari.

This extract is from ‘Exclusive Safari Lodges of South Africa’. Words by Carrie Hampton, photographs and published by Gerald Hoberman.